Chef Daniel Humm’s decision to transition Eleven Madison Park (EMP) to a fully vegan menu in 2021 was hailed as a bold move towards sustainability and ethical dining. However, recent developments suggest that this shift may have been more about trend-chasing and brand positioning than genuine commitment to animal welfare.
The Vegan Pivot: A Financial Strategy?
In 2021, Humm announced that EMP would go entirely plant-based, citing environmental concerns and the desire to promote a more sustainable food system. While this decision garnered praise from some quarters, it has since been revealed that the restaurant was facing financial difficulties, with reports indicating that the move was partly driven by economic pressures.
Furthermore, a leaked op-ed draft suggested that EMP had been underpaying its staff, raising questions about the authenticity of its commitment to ethical practices .
The Return of Animal Products: A Contradiction?
In a surprising turn of events, Humm announced that EMP would reintroduce select animal proteins, including fish, lobsters, oysters, and ducks, into its menu starting October 14, 2025 . This reversal not only contradicts the restaurant’s previous stance but also undermines its claims of promoting a vegan future.
Humm’s justification—that the future restaurant might not be 100% plant-based but “much more thoughtful”—appears to be a convenient excuse to cater to a broader clientele, rather than a genuine commitment to sustainability.
The Illusion of Animal Advocacy
Despite his public persona as an advocate for plant-based cuisine, Humm’s actions suggest that his commitment to animal welfare may be superficial. His decision to reintroduce animal products into EMP’s menu raises questions about the sincerity of his previous vegan stance.
Moreover, reports of labor issues and discrepancies between EMP’s public image and its operational practices further tarnish Humm’s reputation as a champion for ethical dining.
The Future of Vegan Fine Dining
The rise and fall of EMP’s vegan experiment highlight the challenges of implementing sustainable and ethical practices in the fine dining industry. While the initial shift to a plant-based menu was seen as a progressive move, the subsequent reversal underscores the complexities and contradictions inherent in the industry’s approach to sustainability.
As consumers become more discerning and demand greater transparency, chefs and restaurateurs will need to demonstrate genuine commitment to ethical practices, rather than opportunistically jumping on trends.
Conclusion
Daniel Humm’s journey with Eleven Madison Park serves as a cautionary tale about the dangers of using ethical trends as marketing tools. While the restaurant’s initial vegan menu was lauded, the subsequent reintroduction of animal products and revelations about labor practices suggest that the shift was more about capitalizing on a trend than a sincere commitment to animal welfare. As the culinary world continues to evolve, it is imperative that chefs and restaurateurs prioritize genuine ethical practices over transient trends.